MARINA HOERMANSEDER AUTUMN | WINTER 2018 | 2019
Emancipation is the guiding principle behind the Marina Hoermanseder Autumn | Winter Collection, which is accentuated with expressive details. The designer sketches an illustration rich in contrast depicting bold warriors and the glamorous world of the 1920s.
© Gero Breloer
Marina Hoermanseder’s signature element, the leather belt buckle, has become the symbol of her vision. The focus is on women coming together. Confident and loud, they are claiming their privileges, together without any forced roles or power struggles – never in competition. Adorned in a graceful military style and elaborate leather constructions, they march towards a feminine future. Intricate quilted jackets in earthy colours and high-quality camouflage outfits are their constant companions and offer them protection.
The glamour of the golden 20’s in Berlin emphasizes the sophisticated execution and cuts of this collection. Dazzling fabrics and elegant chiffon paint a picturesque image of splendid femininity and create an unmistakable, unique appearance.
The leather, handcrafted key pieces inspired by the extensive range of shapes in orthopaedics underline Marina Hoermanseder’s love of progressive silhouettes. Thoughtfully selected pieces like a voluminous ski suit, bustiers and pants made of thin leather strips as well as ultra-long coats and tight-fitting dresses highlight the fact that the designer constantly reinvents herself while remaining faithful to her founding inspiration. Because every woman can only change with a view to the future if she recognises that she has her very own story.
MARINA HOERMANSEDER SPRING | SUMMER 2018
Inspired by hand-painted matryoshkas, the legendary 90’s, New York streetstyle and the charm of the extreme, Marina Hoermanseder underlines the many facets of feminine diversity with this collection.
© Gero Breloer
Sporty shirts, loose sweaters and sweatpants on the one hand, a skilful interaction with craftsmanship on the other: variations of the signature “Strap Skirts” and “Kasper Bags” paint a cheerful, feminine overall picture with the specially developed floral fabrics and decorative lace.
Highlights are the brightly coloured leather key pieces inspired by the design of modern orthotics for children. The elaborate sculptures express a fascination for orthopaedics and three-dimensional shapes. For the first time, Marina Hoermanseder’s typical buckle can be seen in an over-dimensional version as a differentiating and recurring design element. Pronounced volume is implemented with a great love of detail. The interaction of hard and soft – sports leisure meets couture – is a distinguishing feature of this collection.
The designer also uses denim for the first time, and in doing so, translates the fabric into her very own design language. The results: elegant trousers, blazers and unique corsages. A skirt with thousands of glittering Swarovski crystals is another highlight.
For the fifth season in a row, Christian Louboutin is the exclusive shoe sponsor of the runway défilé. However, this is the first time that various customised shoes were developed in collaboration with the designer. They symbolically underline the feminine chic of the collection as well as her signature style.
AUTUMN | WINTER 2017|2018 COLLECTION
The female archetypes conjured up by Marina Hoermanseder’s Fall/Winter 2017 collection are not quite ofthis world. Brimming with glory and sensitivity, they delve into life with sensuous drama – ominous and enchanting, they seem both worldly and divine.
© Gero Breloer
Grace and a diva-like elegance inspire the collection’s striking stagecraft. The realm of opera, with its timeless robes, inspires the collection’s seductive interplay, reflected in a range of multi-layered, complex combinations.
At the same time, the line’s overall tone also draws on the 1920s, 1960s and the Victorian era, while modern opulence adds distinguished flair with cool, shiny lilac accents and velvety floral fabrics. For the first time in her career, the designer also opts for surprisingly dark hues and black in all its facets. Delicate drapings, frills, bow details and grandiose volumes inject a sense of added depth. Translucent materials complement this diva-style interpretation; Swarovski crystals lend some of the pieces exuberant sparkleand shine.
Bathed in contrasts, the collection blurs the boundaries between Hoermanseder’s ongoing fascination with orthopedics and leather, sensuality and feminine strength. Here, the designer with a penchant for exquisite craftsmanship invites leather constructions, overknee boots, elegant capes and dresses to join forces with fetish elements. Meanwhile, the label’s trademark buckles and leather straps, a statement style since the designer’s graduate collection, underscore Hoermanseder’s inimitable identity and exemplify her pitchperfect interplay between haute couture and sensitive extravagance.
Exclusively for this collection, Marina Hoermanseder also collaborated with innovative heritage brand Wolford – a cooperation resulting in tights, a body and a dress. All of these designs will be available forsale.
Furthermore, and for the fourth season running, Christian Louboutin is the runway show’s sole footwear sponsor.
Spring | Summer 2017
Marina Hoermanseder‘s latest collection pays homage to a blissful summer’s day brimming with dazzling butterflies, bold flowers and glittery pearls.
© Gero Breloer
The Spring | Summer 2017 collection by Marina Hoermanseder whisks us away to the French Riviera. A delightful blend of exuberance, ease and noblesse conjures up the seductive joie de vivre of the Côte d’Azur. Here, maritime stripes remind us of lively, sporty sailing sprees while a calm, warm orange calls up balmy beachside evenings at sundown. Extensive, elaborate applique – ranging from pink pearls to colourful leather flowers – serves as a strong, evocative reminder of summer, masterfully integrated into the collection.
Three-dimensional butterflies embellish some of the collection highlights, the latter fashioned from hand-shaped, lacquered leather – think sculptural corsets and flared skirts. A range of staples like boyfriend shirts, tennis dresses, polonecks, palazzo pants in couture lengths, slim and flared shorts with bow details and pleat-tail blazers encapsulate the laid-back Mediterranean flair that pervades the entire collection. Premium fabrics with a flock gradient, smooth cotton and light-weight jersey add a tactile touch to the line’s gentle femininity. Meanwhile, the experimental inclusion of neoprene lends the collection a stylish, yet urban note while exquisite bestsellers, new and larger leather shoppers or small leather goods add further eye-catchers to the mix.
Marina Hoermanseder has always been intrigued by human fragility. In this spirit, her fashion splices artistic elements of orthopaedics with smart haute couture and pret-a-porter accents. This season, the designer focuses on so-called “butterfly kids” or “crystal skin children”. In cooperation with Swarovski, she translates her inspiration to imaginative, glittering crystals that dot a precious leather dress, an intricate corset and select accessories.
Naturally, the label’s signature-style buckle on leather straps remains the unifying link of any Marina Hoermanseder collection. Here, artful lace and buckle-look embroidery find themselves interlaced with the elegance of Southern France – thus underscoring the label’s distinctive and striking style.
„You can do anything you decide to do. You can act to change and control your life.“
Passion and courage have made Amelia Earhart an icon. She was the first female pilot to complete a solo crossing of the Atlantic. Now, her strengths shape the Fall|Winter 2016|2017 collection of Marina Hoermanseder. Subtle, masculine attributes imbue flight jackets, pleat-fronted pants and hooded coats with a confident pioneering spirit that does not stand in the way of pragmatic opulence.
The designer whisks us away on a trip to the realm of independent women, accentuating flattering and feminine touches. Her signature style thrives on new, 3-D printed embellishments as well as shiny buckles and eyes, placed with a deliberately functional touch. These delicate details contrast and refine the powerful use of leather, inspired by orthopaedic technology. Here, women unafraid to roll up their sleeves, to fight and live for their goals, to conquer their own and external boundaries, celebrate their understated, rediscovered femininity.
In her quest for traditional craft producers, the designer found her Spring/Summer 2016 Collection inspiration in elaborately embellished traditional costumes and garments from the Austro-Hungarian Empire and monarchy. Once again, the female silhouette and orthopaedic elements from the 17th century resurface to fuel the label’s key and founding inspiration.
Beyond the designer’s Austrian heritage, MARINA HOERMANSEDER’s collection also reflects her unmistakable penchant for summery blooms.
The results are girlish and gentle designs, accentuated by sculptural leather, leather strap and buckle accents. Here, the gossamer, fragile nature of the lace served as a blueprint for eyelet embroidery-style handmade leather applique on corsets, while a country garden inspired the countless fine leather blossoms found on static skirts and traditional headpieces.
Ingenious basics – think lightweight blouses with puffed sleeves and princess seams, premium crêpe hand-smocked balloon pants or a reinforced lace blouson – round out the harmoniously extravagant collection.
Combined with its perfected colour scheme of powder pink, rich blue, pristine white, muted lavender and a pastel shade of grass green, Marina Hoermanseder manages to conjure up a delicate and feminine effortlessness – one that is defined by exceptional craft and a strong sense of tradition.