Spring / Summer 2017
For the Vladimir Karaleev Spring / Summer 2017 Collection, the focus is on overlaying different materials.
© Gero Breloer
Cuts and textures are layered and overlap to hide what is hidden underneath or to allow an insight into the various elements of each item of clothing. Seemingly naïve cut-outs break through the surface of the material to provide a clear view of a hidden detail, another layer or a section of the body usually covered by clothes. Cut-outs and incisions are consciously framed, highlighted with contrasting colours or emphasized with stitched seams to create an impression of abstract, geometric compositions on a three-dimensional level. The formal design elements are minimalistic circles, squares or lines. The game of alternating between revealing and concealing is implemented consistently and does not even stop at the pockets, collars or fasteners. In doing so, new solutions are created for pockets; cut-outs become functional details or form decorative patterns with contrasting colours and shapes.
The interaction of striking prints, shapes and flowing, draped elements is further enhanced by the selection of materials. Soft, light fabrics are combined with course net macramé, chunky cotton bouclé and stiff silk organza. Semi-transparent checkers and stripes as well as playful polka dots expand the special layer character by incorporating new, more complex patterns.
In his Spring/Summer 2016 Collection, Vladimir Karaleev takes up the concept of bricolage, exploring techniques in which materials and single elements are linked and re-connected without defined principles.
The designs contain traditional elements, which are re-assembled and complemented by playful details. They therefore reflect the characteristic of a provisional bricolage moment. At the same time, an important feature of this collection remains the conscious arranging, constructing, pattern making and finishing and also the functional approach of pockets, collars and workwear elements.
A flashback of warm, long gone summer days are broken down to blurred sketches and photographic memories. Rough canvas, denims and woven fringed cotton fabrics are contrasted with decorative and elegant Jacquards, soft cotton blends and flowing jerseys.
The silhouette is largely loose and oversized, reminding of quickly drawn, faded shapes, opposing the graphical and more architectural elements.
The colour palette ranges from denim blue, grey and black, through beige, natural and white to iridescent pink, coral and rose.