Following their runway debut for Winter 2017 at the Berliner Mode Salon, designer duo ANTONIA GOY will open the shows at the Kronprinzenpalais this season with their Summer 2018 collection. Designer Antonia Goy and architect Björn Kubeja have been part of the Berlin fashion scene for just under 10 years, and annually create two collections which are presented in showrooms in Paris and New York.
© Gero Breloer
The second runway collection “BORN FREE” thematically takes off from the winter collection “ALIEN NATION” but goes one step further. As its basis, “BORN FREE” channels childish curiosity, that forthright candidness and undisguised interest in everything allegedly foreign. The appeal of the unknown that lies dormant in cultures both near and far leads the designers to approach the roots and foundations of all typologies of clothing, providing them, in a second step, the freedom to reassemble familiar contexts. The diversity of cultures is united by the fact that archetypical clothing forms, be it a kimono, caftan, sari or hijab, are based on the simplest geometric shapes. The differences and variety result from the approach each culture takes to these forms: graphically folded in pleats in Asia, expertly wound close to the body in India, knotted and draped in Africa, flowing and far from the body in the Arab lands. With their signature as European designers, Antonia Goy and Björn Kubeja place these qualities in context with western apparel details such as plackets, cuffs, lapels and tailored silhouettes. Graceful hybrids ensue, which, chameleon-like, merge the one and the other. The longing for integrity, diversity and freedom accompanies the new summer collection by ANTONIA GOY.
In the creative process, the designers make use of the natural qualities of light-handed cotton, structured and paper-like batiste, flowing silk crepe and dense, flowing viscose. Summerly fresh stripes, vigorous plaids, and charming prints exclusively developed for the label mingle with many luminous solids and a base range of white to gray and black.
With asymmetries, openings and transparency, the designers build architectural volumes with which to create new proportions with a sharp silhouette. The flowing dresses are contrasted with apron-like throws, the flat surfaces of blouses and coats are broken by sashes and plackets. Edgy slits and pleated insets lift elegantly wrapped pants and skirts out of the background.
Since 2016, the label Antonia Goy has been part of the selection of German designers in the Berliner Mode Salon, curated by Vogue Germany’s editor-in-chief, Christiane Arp.
ANTONIA GOY’s creative duo has been heavily influenced in their work this season by what has been going on in the world. For when events so deeply shake our familiar habits and ways as they have in recent months, the creative process and the theme of the collection are unavoidably affected. The question arisesas to whether a beautiful collection is a sufficient counter-reaction, or whether as a designer, theopportunity of addressing the theme offers greater possibilities to deal with it all, to have an opinion and put forward a suggestion.
In this context, ANTONIA GOY questions the identity of the female silhouette with the collectionALIEN-NATION for Fall/Winter 2017/18. The aesthetics of the global, multi-faceted, contemporary as wellas historical traditions of dress are fascinating, and embody our idea of freedom, acceptance and respectfor every form of individuality.
The collection plays with elements which appear customary and unchangeable, taking on aspects fromforeign cultures and forging hybrids which excitingly combine opposites to create something new.The aesthetics of tight and wide are ambivalent in some silhouettes, decisive and boldly implemented inothers. The tight, demonstrative, body conscious silhouettes with exaggerated shoulders are given anasymmetrical and widely flowing side. Wide coat silhouettes veil and offer protection. Zippers allow tightlyfitting shapes to be expanded into free forms, while over-wide styles, which seem to be constrained by ahigh, tight waist, are beautifully draped into loosened forms.
In terms of fabrics, flowing viscose jerseys and striped cottons are contrasted with solid and checked wools.Abstract prints are reminiscent of camouflage or action painting, while graphic prints are linked totraditional patterns, both partially incorporating old master florals. Lacquered surfaces and golden accentsgive the collection coolness and glamour.
ALIEN-NATION derives its richness from diversity and variability, working with color and patterns insteadof uniformity and simplicity. It is a collection that celebrates the breakthrough to something new,an aesthetic rebellion fueled by the desire for freedom, and peaceful co-existence and cooperation.
A nation – of differences.
© Gero Breloer
© Gero Breloer